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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.